Our company
battery powered motorcycle
by：Zhenyu
2020-02-07
I love motorcycles all my life and we have a garage full of motorcycles to prove it.
I like them, regardless of size, speed and speed.
That is to say, the little bike in this building is one of my favorite motorcycles.
The background of this Instructable is that we have a couple of Razor E bikes in our garage and as a big man I have been restricted and I can ride them when we camp.
Although it\'s not a huge problem since I rode Yamaha yzuzf most of the time.
I do like the quiet little electric bike, though it\'s a good change from my load and the powerful dirt bike.
I also thought of adjusting the razor as we had a cabin on an island on a steep hill.
The island only allows electric vehicles on roads to keep the noise to a minimum.
Unfortunately, the golf cart in the cabin costs a lot of money, and while hiking is a great exercise, sometimes we just have to run down and get something back from the boat or want to go for a ride.
I started thinking about using two razors.
The motor is set to increase the voltage and current.
After my build was completed, I found a few other people who had already built similar projects.
It was a building three years ago and it was very interesting. my wife asked me to make one for her.
Our list of items is huge, so it took me a long time to order the parts and make her motorcycle.
I also ordered some parts to rework my original bike based on what I learned from building 2.
Doner BikesRazor has made electronic dirty bikes of various styles.
My family has experience using MX500 and MX650 bikes.
They are great little toys dirty bikes with little maintenance required.
At least little maintenance compared to our gas-driven bikes.
We had 1 MX500 and 2 m x 650 s before my initial build.
In the first version, I found an MX500 for $150, bringing our razor count to four bikes.
This became the \"bone\" of the first building and got the project started.
The battery is not on the bike at the time of purchase and requires brake cables and work.
For more information on the first version of doner bike: it sets up a 500 watt motor for the 36 volt system.
For my project scope and my physical size, it has an inferior shock absorber and the controller does not give it enough power (amperage).
Even before I started, my plan was to build one with two bikes.
The motor group, 48 volts, the current is larger, the rear sprocket is larger, and the motor sprocket is larger.
My goal is to be able to take my 240 pounds m to the steep hills of the cottage.
The inventory of these bicycles, even with people as big as me, will not climb to a fairly medium level.
This is a brief history of the beginning of this journey.
So far, I\'m mainly referring to the original version (MX500)
, And how it was built, and why it was built, but I will change the focus now to tell you how I built the second bike, my wife\'s bike (MX650).
On Mother\'s Day, we tried to finish the work in time.
I got help from a friend who also adjusted the razor to finish it in time.
I\'m describing
Close the custom build in this structure.
I will do my best to bring up all aspects of the building as much as I can, but even if you use the exact parts list provided, keep in mind that the wire color will change, parts and distributors change or go out of business and individual parts must be aligned and fit in size.
View photos of tips and key components.
I have added notes to most photos.
You do need to click on the photos in order to read these notes.
Usually, the top left corner of the box points to which part I am referring.
Try it on this photo and see what I mean.
Click on the pencil icon on the photo to display the drop-down notes.
Safety Note: a large number of electric and powerless tools are required for this project.
Precautions should be used when using any type of tool.
Proper gloves, hearing and eye protection must be provided.
Keep in mind that in this project you will be using enough DC power to gain respect.
In other words, don\'t try this project if you don\'t have a basic understanding of power.
If you\'re not careful, you can easily burn yourself, cut yourself, stab yourself, or stick your eyes out.
Don\'t move on without the necessary knowledge and skills.
Tools Needed: welding table (or iron)
, Welding, welding, bit and/or bit Press, hacksaw or cutting grinder, screwdriver, wrench, grinder, box knife, marking, tap/mold, tape measure, metal bit and Vice drill bit.
These are the least used tools.
Supply: this is an extensive list and I have tried my best to tell you what part number I used.
It\'s not an easy thing because two years ago I took a bunch of parts from the workspace and started to accumulate the parts. MX500 or MX650-
Use $150 to $250 from Craigslist. I have four (
Two of each MX500 and MX650)
I bought it for $150 per piece, but I don\'t care about the condition of most components.
Not even a battery or charger. 1x Controller -
65A 48 volt controller (Model: YK42-4)Item CTL-
Motorcycles from 101215 multinational companies.
I believe this is the correct one I have used, but check it out before you buy it. (
I changed the speed controller. SD1000-
Parts from electric motorcycles 6.
Com burned 65 A controller after several rides. )
2x motor-750 W rear sprocket for razor motor-
50 tooth sprocket project FH-SPROCKET-50, Bikeberry.
Double D-11 tooth comMotor sprocket
Drilling sprocket for \"x1/8\" self-chain SPK-
106022, tncscooters.
ComBatteries-turniy Multistar 6 S 12000 mAh 10C Lipo Amp meter-waterproof DC, small digital KV meter.
56 \"LED green switch-
Battery power disconnect rotary isolation switch a802 bike chain-410 chain same as BMX chain in bike shopping mountain bike impact-DNM ao42 ar mountain bike impact with lock 200x57mm XT 90 Connector-
SummitLink 10 pairs of XT90 high connectors
Amp Lipo Batteries200 A fuse-Baomain ANL-
200A electric protection ANL fuse 200 Amp with fuse holder bullet or spade connector-12-
Smaller specifications can be used for this step.
Ring connector-large enough to fit the column on the switch.
Each hose clamp has nuts and bolts 10 or 12 spec line 3-from Ace Hardware I don\'t have a part number.
I believe this is the two largest in their inventory and one of the next drops in size.
Some clues in the photo may help to choose the right one.
The 1/8 \"x 1\" x 3\' flat iron rod stockMy donated bike for this project is a razor mx650.
They have a 650 watt motor, a 36 v system and a 30 amp controller.
In the words of Razor\'s marketing materials: Here are the specifications and features that make the MX650 truly topof-the-
Linear electric motorcycle: chain-
The driven 650-watt motor can provide variable speeds up to 17 mph.
It measures 56 \"x 24 when assembling.
5 \"x 36\", weighing 98 pounds.
The power supply comes from three lead-acid rechargeable batteries that are 12 v sealed.
The charging time is 12 hours.
It comes with a battery charger and other tools needed to assemble and maintain it.
The MX650 Shaver can run up to 40 minutes or 10 miles (
Although this may be longer if the rider is lighter and lighter).
It comes with some of the less powerful MX500: Twist-
Grip acceleration control, manual
Double disc brake for operation, double suspension and adjustable riser handle, large 16-
First inch and 14-
Inflatable tires, double crown forks, folding metal foot nails and retractable brackets after inches. The super-
Cross inspired reduced dirt bike design can carry up to 220 pounds.
If this stock bike description sounds good enough for you and your friends, then you can stop here.
But I will replace everything; LET\'S GO!
So I started by taking the bike down.
I took everything off the bike, including all the plastic, batteries, motors and cables.
Only brake rods and tires are turned on.
Even at the beginning, it seems to have abandoned a task, but it only takes a few minutes to clean up the bike to the frame.
If you have done it before, about 15 minutes.
Donated bikes usually remove bolts, rusty parts and things like that, because others have dealt with them without the right tools, it may take longer to remove the stripped hardware.
As you can see, this is a solid small bike made by Razor.
In this photo, the bike is in stock in addition to having installed the mountain bike impact and the rear sprocket installed. (
I ended up turning the sprocket from the position shown here to better align with the motor sprocket. )
The weak link of the inventory razor of this building is the front impact and the small disc brake.
Both work, but it may be better for the monster we are about to create.
The build needs to start somewhere, so let\'s start with the sprocket.
The simple two are located on the motor.
I am replacing the stock chain and sprocket so that it can withstand my abuse of it.
Remove the stock sprocket from the motor using a sleeve and wrench to keep the shaft.
Install larger sprocket.
I used a large sprocket designed specifically for the back of a custom bike and tried two different sizes.
I took it with the inventory sprocket to a machine store and asked them to cut the center hole larger to fit the installation and cut the bolt holes in to fit the installation.
My second building, which is the building, I cut the hole with a drill bit and a hole saw.
I recommend choosing a machine store.
My results are good, but this is a very difficult process to determine.
I then bolted the inventory sprocket to the custom sprocket to add support, although this may not be a necessary step.
The mountain bike impact is just right for the position of the stock impact, without any modification.
It even uses the same bolts.
For peace of mind, you can add some thread lockers to these things.
This will lift the bike and look cooler in addition to providing enough support for larger riders.
With a high quality bike pump that can withstand high pressure, the impact can also be adjusted to different riders.
I removed the 650 W stock motor and I will replace it with two 750 W Motors.
You can change this step.
You can go with 650 watts of stock yourself and save some money.
It may or may not tolerate upcoming abuse.
You can also install a 750 watt motor that will bolt directly in place, but it may also survive for a long time as others change, or it may not survive for a long time.
I believe that the motor with two controllers will withstand the abuse of the 40 a or 65 A controller and the 50 V controller.
I will explain most of this part with photos.
I fixed the rear frame bolt on the top motor and screwed the motor as high as possible, then tightened the bolt slightly to secure it in place.
I then cut a piece from my bar stock and drill holes on it to install the front frame hole onto the motor.
Some brackets need some small bending to fit on the motor and/or frame.
I will try to remind you of these in the photos.
Here are some important considerations.
If you remove the two bolts, the motor will be separated, it will be difficult to put it back in the right position, and it will be difficult to push the brush into to close the housing.
To avoid this, use only one bolt at a time.
If you tighten the motor Bolt too much, you will break the housing and the shrapnel will enter your motor and you will need to remove it from the parts.
Don\'t be that guy.
On this building, I also used a slightly longer Bolt to give me a connection point on the other side of the motor to avoid the casting shell breaking.
I have these longer bolts in my garage, but they can be purchased from Ace Hardware or anywhere with a decent Bolt option.
So far, we have two positions to connect the left side of the top motor to the frame.
Now take the second motor and connect it to the lower side of the first motor and the front of the swing arm with a smaller hose clamp.
Tight, but not too tight yet.
Add the other two larger hose clamps at this point, connect the motor together and tighten it slightly.
The motor should still be adjustable in order to align all the sprocket.
Support can now be added to the right as shown in the figure.
Make sure the sprocket is arranged in a straight line with each other, and then tighten the bracket bolts and fixtures.
The first is the battery I chose for this particular building. I went with 22.
2 V 6 S 15C graphene because I would love to try.
Back to the stock specification, you will see the 12-hour charging time of the sealed lead-acid battery from the shaver stock.
Graphene shortens this process to about an hour when fully discharged.
The downside, of course, is cost.
Graphene is expensive but very cool.
I built the first bike with four sealed lead-acid batteries, so I just ordered the Lipo battery to rework the mx500.
I will share the part numbers for Lipo batteries as they are more cost effective and still have excellent performance.
The same Lipo battery I listed also has a 20 Ah battery pack.
It\'s a bit expensive, but it will be worth it if you want a longer run time.
I have two battery packs in series to create 44. 4 volts.
These are 12 Ah batteries.
Ideally I would like to add two more batteries that are the same as the first group and then wire them in parallel so I can get 24 Ah and 44. 4 V.
Unfortunately, the battery is expensive and the increased battery range comes with a large price tag.
Another good benefit is that the weight of the replacement battery is only a small part of the SLA Battery weight, and they are placed side by side in the same tray that comes out of the stock battery.
I just cut and bend the bracket that locks the original battery and use it for the new battery. See photo.
Zip or tie your controller somewhere near the battery.
This is the last step before all wiring.
Measure your parts and cut holes out of the plastic to install them.
This creates a very clean look.
Please use some common sense and caution when you are working here.
First, I weld the main line of each motor together, and then weld it to the cross line gauge of 10 or 12.
Then do the same for the negative motor wires.
At the end of the positive and negative motor wires, I weld on the XT90 fitting.
The other end is connected to the controller wire marked as the motor.
They also got an XT90 accessory that can be paired with the motor wire connector.
Install the throttle and add the shovel connector to the three wires.
The color varies from manufacturer to manufacturer, but one is 5 V and the other is 1 v.
4 volts, one will be the ground/negative of your HallEffect throttle.
I used 10/12 connectors for throttle-to-controller connections, so since these leads use smaller wires, they need to curl and Weld.
You can use smaller connectors yourself, which happens to be what I provide.
Add the XT 90 connector to the controller for power-on.
The power supply for the controller comes from two wires.
The negative pole is directly connected to the negative pole of the battery, the positive pole is routed to the fuse, switch, and the jumper is routed to the voltmeter.
I will show this in picture format with notes.
A plug needs to be added to connect the charger to the battery before switching.
For this I used the XT60 connector so it can only connect to the charger as it is the only connector in the build.
We took apart the charger I bought and changed the voltage output to 50.
We thought it was ideal for the battery I used.
You can call the dealer and ask them to set the charger to a given voltage at the time of purchase.
It might be better because I don\'t want you to break your charger or be shocked.
If you want the hood, you can now connect everything and reinstall your tank, seat.
I left.
You can fix the controller bolts on the frame or simply connect with a zipper.
The 410 chain is also cut into length and installed. Accessorize.
Add custom paint, lights, mirrors or anything that makes it unique to you.
You should do something before starting the initial test run.
Make sure there is air in the tires.
Make sure the brakes are working properly, make sure all bolts are tightened and all systems look right.
Set your impact pressure to your weight.
This can be done by bouncing on the seat and observing how far the ring goes along the axial direction.
If some air is added to the bottom of the impact, if the bottom of the impact is barely moving down, then remove some air.
If you have never ridden an electric car before, be aware that they are all torque.
If you \'ve just stepped on the gas pedal, the bike will put you on the bottom of the street.
Start slowly and gain confidence.
Always wear a helmet.
I told my wife and children not to let anyone ride the first car.
My wife had experience with motorcycles and didn\'t think it was a big deal until she put her friends who had never driven a motorcycle before on them.
Unfortunately, she immediately drove at full speed to the back of my Explorer.
The bike in this unit runs more than 30 miles an hour with people of my size on it.
Smaller riders are faster.
Keep in mind that frames, tires, brakes, and front shocks are not designed for this pressure, so risk building and riding on your own.
If you find it too much like an animal, then tame it with a change of 40 controllers.
I should also note that I did not use the brake cancel switch to cut off the power of the motor when the brakes were used, but many controllers would adapt to this function and it really should be installed.
Update: We fried the 65 A controller for about 20 minutes of total ride time.
When it blows, it hangs the throttle full and takes off on the wheel.
My daughter grabbed the brake and turned off the power switch without any accident, but using the brake cut off switch also cut off the power.
I still need to design a chain tensioning device that works fine and doesn\'t get too loud when driving because part of the charm is how quiet these bikes are to ride.
Like an invisible bike.
They can\'t hear you.
I\'m not an electrical engineer.
I am not an expert in electric vehicles.
If you do build one of them, be aware of the serious risks involved.
Your building is dangerous to ride (
Helmets and protective clothing should be worn frequently).
The parts are expensive and you can fry the parts at any time.
Let me say again, \"the parts are expensive and you may burn them.
\"I am fairly confident that the building will last for a while, but there is no time for durability testing yet.
With about 10 miles away, it\'s too early to know how it\'s going to keep running for a long time.
Update: burned 65 A controller and moved down to 35.
After trying A few controllers, we decided that 35 A was perfect for my wife and should give me A proper run time and extended range.
You know, the 100 amp controller is completely inevitable for her.
It\'s an expensive project that takes some time and tricks.
I believe I can finish a complete building in about 12 minutes
15 hours, but so far it will take more time for your first hour.
I did a speed test with my daughter tonight.
It has the highest speed of 30 miles per hour and is very fast for such a small bike.
It moves around at a speed and I don\'t feel much when I ride.
The best guess is that its half throttle range is close to 5 miles.
I had a good time and was very happy with the results, and now I\'m going to remake my first version of the MX500, and when I\'m done with the changes I\'ll share some photos and insights into this structure.
I am always open to questions and comments and will do my best to answer any questions you may have.
In this post, I have referenced the MX500 first build many times, so I thought maybe I should show it and outline some differences.
It is a 48 v SLA system that powers two 500 W Motors with a 100A controller.
The weight of the four SLA batteries is great, but it can really be used with the 100A controller.
At first, I was burning wires and had all kinds of problems.
I will rework it so that it is set closer to this build and would like to update this instrucalble after it is done.
For some comments and possible ideas that you can make changes to your build, see photos.
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I like them, regardless of size, speed and speed.
That is to say, the little bike in this building is one of my favorite motorcycles.
The background of this Instructable is that we have a couple of Razor E bikes in our garage and as a big man I have been restricted and I can ride them when we camp.
Although it\'s not a huge problem since I rode Yamaha yzuzf most of the time.
I do like the quiet little electric bike, though it\'s a good change from my load and the powerful dirt bike.
I also thought of adjusting the razor as we had a cabin on an island on a steep hill.
The island only allows electric vehicles on roads to keep the noise to a minimum.
Unfortunately, the golf cart in the cabin costs a lot of money, and while hiking is a great exercise, sometimes we just have to run down and get something back from the boat or want to go for a ride.
I started thinking about using two razors.
The motor is set to increase the voltage and current.
After my build was completed, I found a few other people who had already built similar projects.
It was a building three years ago and it was very interesting. my wife asked me to make one for her.
Our list of items is huge, so it took me a long time to order the parts and make her motorcycle.
I also ordered some parts to rework my original bike based on what I learned from building 2.
Doner BikesRazor has made electronic dirty bikes of various styles.
My family has experience using MX500 and MX650 bikes.
They are great little toys dirty bikes with little maintenance required.
At least little maintenance compared to our gas-driven bikes.
We had 1 MX500 and 2 m x 650 s before my initial build.
In the first version, I found an MX500 for $150, bringing our razor count to four bikes.
This became the \"bone\" of the first building and got the project started.
The battery is not on the bike at the time of purchase and requires brake cables and work.
For more information on the first version of doner bike: it sets up a 500 watt motor for the 36 volt system.
For my project scope and my physical size, it has an inferior shock absorber and the controller does not give it enough power (amperage).
Even before I started, my plan was to build one with two bikes.
The motor group, 48 volts, the current is larger, the rear sprocket is larger, and the motor sprocket is larger.
My goal is to be able to take my 240 pounds m to the steep hills of the cottage.
The inventory of these bicycles, even with people as big as me, will not climb to a fairly medium level.
This is a brief history of the beginning of this journey.
So far, I\'m mainly referring to the original version (MX500)
, And how it was built, and why it was built, but I will change the focus now to tell you how I built the second bike, my wife\'s bike (MX650).
On Mother\'s Day, we tried to finish the work in time.
I got help from a friend who also adjusted the razor to finish it in time.
I\'m describing
Close the custom build in this structure.
I will do my best to bring up all aspects of the building as much as I can, but even if you use the exact parts list provided, keep in mind that the wire color will change, parts and distributors change or go out of business and individual parts must be aligned and fit in size.
View photos of tips and key components.
I have added notes to most photos.
You do need to click on the photos in order to read these notes.
Usually, the top left corner of the box points to which part I am referring.
Try it on this photo and see what I mean.
Click on the pencil icon on the photo to display the drop-down notes.
Safety Note: a large number of electric and powerless tools are required for this project.
Precautions should be used when using any type of tool.
Proper gloves, hearing and eye protection must be provided.
Keep in mind that in this project you will be using enough DC power to gain respect.
In other words, don\'t try this project if you don\'t have a basic understanding of power.
If you\'re not careful, you can easily burn yourself, cut yourself, stab yourself, or stick your eyes out.
Don\'t move on without the necessary knowledge and skills.
Tools Needed: welding table (or iron)
, Welding, welding, bit and/or bit Press, hacksaw or cutting grinder, screwdriver, wrench, grinder, box knife, marking, tap/mold, tape measure, metal bit and Vice drill bit.
These are the least used tools.
Supply: this is an extensive list and I have tried my best to tell you what part number I used.
It\'s not an easy thing because two years ago I took a bunch of parts from the workspace and started to accumulate the parts. MX500 or MX650-
Use $150 to $250 from Craigslist. I have four (
Two of each MX500 and MX650)
I bought it for $150 per piece, but I don\'t care about the condition of most components.
Not even a battery or charger. 1x Controller -
65A 48 volt controller (Model: YK42-4)Item CTL-
Motorcycles from 101215 multinational companies.
I believe this is the correct one I have used, but check it out before you buy it. (
I changed the speed controller. SD1000-
Parts from electric motorcycles 6.
Com burned 65 A controller after several rides. )
2x motor-750 W rear sprocket for razor motor-
50 tooth sprocket project FH-SPROCKET-50, Bikeberry.
Double D-11 tooth comMotor sprocket
Drilling sprocket for \"x1/8\" self-chain SPK-
106022, tncscooters.
ComBatteries-turniy Multistar 6 S 12000 mAh 10C Lipo Amp meter-waterproof DC, small digital KV meter.
56 \"LED green switch-
Battery power disconnect rotary isolation switch a802 bike chain-410 chain same as BMX chain in bike shopping mountain bike impact-DNM ao42 ar mountain bike impact with lock 200x57mm XT 90 Connector-
SummitLink 10 pairs of XT90 high connectors
Amp Lipo Batteries200 A fuse-Baomain ANL-
200A electric protection ANL fuse 200 Amp with fuse holder bullet or spade connector-12-
Smaller specifications can be used for this step.
Ring connector-large enough to fit the column on the switch.
Each hose clamp has nuts and bolts 10 or 12 spec line 3-from Ace Hardware I don\'t have a part number.
I believe this is the two largest in their inventory and one of the next drops in size.
Some clues in the photo may help to choose the right one.
The 1/8 \"x 1\" x 3\' flat iron rod stockMy donated bike for this project is a razor mx650.
They have a 650 watt motor, a 36 v system and a 30 amp controller.
In the words of Razor\'s marketing materials: Here are the specifications and features that make the MX650 truly topof-the-
Linear electric motorcycle: chain-
The driven 650-watt motor can provide variable speeds up to 17 mph.
It measures 56 \"x 24 when assembling.
5 \"x 36\", weighing 98 pounds.
The power supply comes from three lead-acid rechargeable batteries that are 12 v sealed.
The charging time is 12 hours.
It comes with a battery charger and other tools needed to assemble and maintain it.
The MX650 Shaver can run up to 40 minutes or 10 miles (
Although this may be longer if the rider is lighter and lighter).
It comes with some of the less powerful MX500: Twist-
Grip acceleration control, manual
Double disc brake for operation, double suspension and adjustable riser handle, large 16-
First inch and 14-
Inflatable tires, double crown forks, folding metal foot nails and retractable brackets after inches. The super-
Cross inspired reduced dirt bike design can carry up to 220 pounds.
If this stock bike description sounds good enough for you and your friends, then you can stop here.
But I will replace everything; LET\'S GO!
So I started by taking the bike down.
I took everything off the bike, including all the plastic, batteries, motors and cables.
Only brake rods and tires are turned on.
Even at the beginning, it seems to have abandoned a task, but it only takes a few minutes to clean up the bike to the frame.
If you have done it before, about 15 minutes.
Donated bikes usually remove bolts, rusty parts and things like that, because others have dealt with them without the right tools, it may take longer to remove the stripped hardware.
As you can see, this is a solid small bike made by Razor.
In this photo, the bike is in stock in addition to having installed the mountain bike impact and the rear sprocket installed. (
I ended up turning the sprocket from the position shown here to better align with the motor sprocket. )
The weak link of the inventory razor of this building is the front impact and the small disc brake.
Both work, but it may be better for the monster we are about to create.
The build needs to start somewhere, so let\'s start with the sprocket.
The simple two are located on the motor.
I am replacing the stock chain and sprocket so that it can withstand my abuse of it.
Remove the stock sprocket from the motor using a sleeve and wrench to keep the shaft.
Install larger sprocket.
I used a large sprocket designed specifically for the back of a custom bike and tried two different sizes.
I took it with the inventory sprocket to a machine store and asked them to cut the center hole larger to fit the installation and cut the bolt holes in to fit the installation.
My second building, which is the building, I cut the hole with a drill bit and a hole saw.
I recommend choosing a machine store.
My results are good, but this is a very difficult process to determine.
I then bolted the inventory sprocket to the custom sprocket to add support, although this may not be a necessary step.
The mountain bike impact is just right for the position of the stock impact, without any modification.
It even uses the same bolts.
For peace of mind, you can add some thread lockers to these things.
This will lift the bike and look cooler in addition to providing enough support for larger riders.
With a high quality bike pump that can withstand high pressure, the impact can also be adjusted to different riders.
I removed the 650 W stock motor and I will replace it with two 750 W Motors.
You can change this step.
You can go with 650 watts of stock yourself and save some money.
It may or may not tolerate upcoming abuse.
You can also install a 750 watt motor that will bolt directly in place, but it may also survive for a long time as others change, or it may not survive for a long time.
I believe that the motor with two controllers will withstand the abuse of the 40 a or 65 A controller and the 50 V controller.
I will explain most of this part with photos.
I fixed the rear frame bolt on the top motor and screwed the motor as high as possible, then tightened the bolt slightly to secure it in place.
I then cut a piece from my bar stock and drill holes on it to install the front frame hole onto the motor.
Some brackets need some small bending to fit on the motor and/or frame.
I will try to remind you of these in the photos.
Here are some important considerations.
If you remove the two bolts, the motor will be separated, it will be difficult to put it back in the right position, and it will be difficult to push the brush into to close the housing.
To avoid this, use only one bolt at a time.
If you tighten the motor Bolt too much, you will break the housing and the shrapnel will enter your motor and you will need to remove it from the parts.
Don\'t be that guy.
On this building, I also used a slightly longer Bolt to give me a connection point on the other side of the motor to avoid the casting shell breaking.
I have these longer bolts in my garage, but they can be purchased from Ace Hardware or anywhere with a decent Bolt option.
So far, we have two positions to connect the left side of the top motor to the frame.
Now take the second motor and connect it to the lower side of the first motor and the front of the swing arm with a smaller hose clamp.
Tight, but not too tight yet.
Add the other two larger hose clamps at this point, connect the motor together and tighten it slightly.
The motor should still be adjustable in order to align all the sprocket.
Support can now be added to the right as shown in the figure.
Make sure the sprocket is arranged in a straight line with each other, and then tighten the bracket bolts and fixtures.
The first is the battery I chose for this particular building. I went with 22.
2 V 6 S 15C graphene because I would love to try.
Back to the stock specification, you will see the 12-hour charging time of the sealed lead-acid battery from the shaver stock.
Graphene shortens this process to about an hour when fully discharged.
The downside, of course, is cost.
Graphene is expensive but very cool.
I built the first bike with four sealed lead-acid batteries, so I just ordered the Lipo battery to rework the mx500.
I will share the part numbers for Lipo batteries as they are more cost effective and still have excellent performance.
The same Lipo battery I listed also has a 20 Ah battery pack.
It\'s a bit expensive, but it will be worth it if you want a longer run time.
I have two battery packs in series to create 44. 4 volts.
These are 12 Ah batteries.
Ideally I would like to add two more batteries that are the same as the first group and then wire them in parallel so I can get 24 Ah and 44. 4 V.
Unfortunately, the battery is expensive and the increased battery range comes with a large price tag.
Another good benefit is that the weight of the replacement battery is only a small part of the SLA Battery weight, and they are placed side by side in the same tray that comes out of the stock battery.
I just cut and bend the bracket that locks the original battery and use it for the new battery. See photo.
Zip or tie your controller somewhere near the battery.
This is the last step before all wiring.
Measure your parts and cut holes out of the plastic to install them.
This creates a very clean look.
Please use some common sense and caution when you are working here.
First, I weld the main line of each motor together, and then weld it to the cross line gauge of 10 or 12.
Then do the same for the negative motor wires.
At the end of the positive and negative motor wires, I weld on the XT90 fitting.
The other end is connected to the controller wire marked as the motor.
They also got an XT90 accessory that can be paired with the motor wire connector.
Install the throttle and add the shovel connector to the three wires.
The color varies from manufacturer to manufacturer, but one is 5 V and the other is 1 v.
4 volts, one will be the ground/negative of your HallEffect throttle.
I used 10/12 connectors for throttle-to-controller connections, so since these leads use smaller wires, they need to curl and Weld.
You can use smaller connectors yourself, which happens to be what I provide.
Add the XT 90 connector to the controller for power-on.
The power supply for the controller comes from two wires.
The negative pole is directly connected to the negative pole of the battery, the positive pole is routed to the fuse, switch, and the jumper is routed to the voltmeter.
I will show this in picture format with notes.
A plug needs to be added to connect the charger to the battery before switching.
For this I used the XT60 connector so it can only connect to the charger as it is the only connector in the build.
We took apart the charger I bought and changed the voltage output to 50.
We thought it was ideal for the battery I used.
You can call the dealer and ask them to set the charger to a given voltage at the time of purchase.
It might be better because I don\'t want you to break your charger or be shocked.
If you want the hood, you can now connect everything and reinstall your tank, seat.
I left.
You can fix the controller bolts on the frame or simply connect with a zipper.
The 410 chain is also cut into length and installed. Accessorize.
Add custom paint, lights, mirrors or anything that makes it unique to you.
You should do something before starting the initial test run.
Make sure there is air in the tires.
Make sure the brakes are working properly, make sure all bolts are tightened and all systems look right.
Set your impact pressure to your weight.
This can be done by bouncing on the seat and observing how far the ring goes along the axial direction.
If some air is added to the bottom of the impact, if the bottom of the impact is barely moving down, then remove some air.
If you have never ridden an electric car before, be aware that they are all torque.
If you \'ve just stepped on the gas pedal, the bike will put you on the bottom of the street.
Start slowly and gain confidence.
Always wear a helmet.
I told my wife and children not to let anyone ride the first car.
My wife had experience with motorcycles and didn\'t think it was a big deal until she put her friends who had never driven a motorcycle before on them.
Unfortunately, she immediately drove at full speed to the back of my Explorer.
The bike in this unit runs more than 30 miles an hour with people of my size on it.
Smaller riders are faster.
Keep in mind that frames, tires, brakes, and front shocks are not designed for this pressure, so risk building and riding on your own.
If you find it too much like an animal, then tame it with a change of 40 controllers.
I should also note that I did not use the brake cancel switch to cut off the power of the motor when the brakes were used, but many controllers would adapt to this function and it really should be installed.
Update: We fried the 65 A controller for about 20 minutes of total ride time.
When it blows, it hangs the throttle full and takes off on the wheel.
My daughter grabbed the brake and turned off the power switch without any accident, but using the brake cut off switch also cut off the power.
I still need to design a chain tensioning device that works fine and doesn\'t get too loud when driving because part of the charm is how quiet these bikes are to ride.
Like an invisible bike.
They can\'t hear you.
I\'m not an electrical engineer.
I am not an expert in electric vehicles.
If you do build one of them, be aware of the serious risks involved.
Your building is dangerous to ride (
Helmets and protective clothing should be worn frequently).
The parts are expensive and you can fry the parts at any time.
Let me say again, \"the parts are expensive and you may burn them.
\"I am fairly confident that the building will last for a while, but there is no time for durability testing yet.
With about 10 miles away, it\'s too early to know how it\'s going to keep running for a long time.
Update: burned 65 A controller and moved down to 35.
After trying A few controllers, we decided that 35 A was perfect for my wife and should give me A proper run time and extended range.
You know, the 100 amp controller is completely inevitable for her.
It\'s an expensive project that takes some time and tricks.
I believe I can finish a complete building in about 12 minutes
15 hours, but so far it will take more time for your first hour.
I did a speed test with my daughter tonight.
It has the highest speed of 30 miles per hour and is very fast for such a small bike.
It moves around at a speed and I don\'t feel much when I ride.
The best guess is that its half throttle range is close to 5 miles.
I had a good time and was very happy with the results, and now I\'m going to remake my first version of the MX500, and when I\'m done with the changes I\'ll share some photos and insights into this structure.
I am always open to questions and comments and will do my best to answer any questions you may have.
In this post, I have referenced the MX500 first build many times, so I thought maybe I should show it and outline some differences.
It is a 48 v SLA system that powers two 500 W Motors with a 100A controller.
The weight of the four SLA batteries is great, but it can really be used with the 100A controller.
At first, I was burning wires and had all kinds of problems.
I will rework it so that it is set closer to this build and would like to update this instrucalble after it is done.
For some comments and possible ideas that you can make changes to your build, see photos.
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